eMeehan.com

Was doing my normal run on town lake the other day, on a normal late after noon. I was passing one of the small bridges when I noticed a guy standing just below it. The man looked like a transient, but my mind locked onto the image of an old friend. A very good friend of mine from high school, who transplanted to Hawaii from Northern Canada, and ran into some trouble in his life along the way. Its been years since I have seen him, but last I was told he may not even be among us any longer. This man brought back his memeory with a rush of overwhelming emotion. I don’t fully understand what it did to me, but it was if I wanted to laugh and cry all at the same time. I almost wanted to stop and go back to see if it was him.

I want to never forget friends like him, seems the older I get the harder it is to make those kind of friends. He was a great artist, and I have been thinking of adding a new tattoo, think his art work would be a great way to never forget.

Sitting on the beach, stretching, watching, looking for rip currents and set sizes. Looks good, think I will paddle out. Small burst of excitement as I walk towards the water, and the chill of the cold as I first make contact with the ocean. Walk my board past the inside breakers… its deep enough now, think I can paddle out. Wait for the right moment to jump on my board and start the battle against the sea, no sets in sight, let’s go.

The first time the water hits my face it stings of cold, but then numb, then warm shortly after. First couple of inside waves hit me head on, they are small and I duck them with no problem. A few more paddles and I pass my first wave without duck diving, it’s an easy paddle to the outside from here.

Ahhh… relax. Sit up on my board and just take in the calm of the ocean. So smooth, not a ripple in sight… man I have not seen it this glassy in weeks. Look back at the beach to check my position, looks like the current is not as strong as I thought. I see a small set on the horizon, act like I don’t see it and maybe the others won’t notice.

Slowly paddle outside, but try not to make a scene. The lines are getting closer.  Yeah… that’s definitely a set coming, how big are they? Okay, shit I think I am too far inside, I don’t know where the sets are breaking, I notice others paddling out past me… maybe I should follow suit. Oh crap, that’s a big set, small panic, butterflies, paddle your fucking ass off, and get over this first wave!

It’s a wall, it casts its own shadow… the off shore breeze blows over the forming lip. The gentle lift as I start to paddle over, look down the line to see the lip form, like a cover of Surfer Magazine… this wave is beautiful, yet ugly all at the same time.

Looking back the spray off the lips smacks my face, and just for a moment it stops time.

Oh Shit!! Panic! There is another set wave, and this one is bigger!! Paddle! Paddle now, and paddle fast! I think I can catch this one, only if I can just get a little further. I turn now, as if I changed my mind, but I know exactly what I want… this wave is mine!

It’s big enough and steep enough that I don’t need to paddle hard to catch it, she catches me. The drop is steep, big bottom turn.. get into the pocket and just maybe I will get a little barrel action. I get my few seconds of adrenaline (they feel like minutes) and pull out the back…. Man that was Fucking awesome. Let’s do it again.

My Big/Lil Sister

Wow, so I just got off the phone with my little sister, well my big sister now… because she is giving me advice these days. Love her, she is one of the best things to come into my life. As a child she stole the spot light, and I had issues with that. As I grew up and we bonded, my brat little sister became my best friend. No matter what she is always there for me, and I will never forget that. As her big brother I have done what I could to push her in the right direction. When she wanted to take a break from school and live at home I invited her to live with me in San Luis Obispo, California while I interned with a surf company. My logic was to get her out of Hawaii, show her there was more out there then just the islands and explore. Seemed to work, she went back to school and is now living in San Fransisco with her boyfriend of two years.

Now the tides have turned, and I look to my sister for advice. She has grown up so much its funny to me, she is still that little girl to me sometimes, the one who would tell my mom when I said “fuck” or “shit”. She would always get me in trouble, I remember the time she found my stash and gave it to my parents, those were fun days. Now she give me solid advice, and damn is it good. It’s like having my own Dr. Phil but with out the stupid puns or witty comments.

I have learned alot about my self, and only becuase I can look at myself thru someone elses eyes. Get advice from a person who really cares about me, who really loves me. In this trully lonley world, I can still find comfort in a phone call, just to hear her voice has made all the difference to me tonight. Thank you Rosey, your are and will always be my big little sister.