Sitting on the beach, stretching, watching, looking for rip currents and set sizes. Looks good, think I will paddle out. Small burst of excitement as I walk towards the water, and the chill of the cold as I first make contact with the ocean. Walk my board past the inside breakers… its deep enough now, think I can paddle out. Wait for the right moment to jump on my board and start the battle against the sea, no sets in sight, let’s go.
The first time the water hits my face it stings of cold, but then numb, then warm shortly after. First couple of inside waves hit me head on, they are small and I duck them with no problem. A few more paddles and I pass my first wave without duck diving, it’s an easy paddle to the outside from here.
Ahhh… relax. Sit up on my board and just take in the calm of the ocean. So smooth, not a ripple in sight… man I have not seen it this glassy in weeks. Look back at the beach to check my position, looks like the current is not as strong as I thought. I see a small set on the horizon, act like I don’t see it and maybe the others won’t notice.
Slowly paddle outside, but try not to make a scene. The lines are getting closer. Yeah… that’s definitely a set coming, how big are they? Okay, shit I think I am too far inside, I don’t know where the sets are breaking, I notice others paddling out past me… maybe I should follow suit. Oh crap, that’s a big set, small panic, butterflies, paddle your fucking ass off, and get over this first wave!
It’s a wall, it casts its own shadow… the off shore breeze blows over the forming lip. The gentle lift as I start to paddle over, look down the line to see the lip form, like a cover of Surfer Magazine… this wave is beautiful, yet ugly all at the same time.
Looking back the spray off the lips smacks my face, and just for a moment it stops time.
Oh Shit!! Panic! There is another set wave, and this one is bigger!! Paddle! Paddle now, and paddle fast! I think I can catch this one, only if I can just get a little further. I turn now, as if I changed my mind, but I know exactly what I want… this wave is mine!
It’s big enough and steep enough that I don’t need to paddle hard to catch it, she catches me. The drop is steep, big bottom turn.. get into the pocket and just maybe I will get a little barrel action. I get my few seconds of adrenaline (they feel like minutes) and pull out the back…. Man that was Fucking awesome. Let’s do it again.
Well it’s here again, the week of all weeks for geeks around the globe to come together and share in Austin, TX. Another year has passed, and so fast. Did I learn anything from last year? Did I take home any inspiration? I think I did, but it wasn’t in the panels or the trade show. It was the large masses of people, geeks like me, but better.
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