I miss surfing!!!
November 4th, 2007
When I had a problem, I surfed. When I had a bad day, I surfed. When everything seemed wrong in this world, I surfed. And when I got out of the water… its as if the thousands of gallons of salt water just washed all the bullshit away. Surfing (or body boarding, which was 70% of the time) was my escape from the world, it was my pain killer… my escape from the realities we call life. I could spend hours in the water, no need for food or drink. I didn’t even need to make much money, or drive a fancy car, it was all about getting to the beach and just hanging out with friends. It was the few times in my life I truly felt excited, and inspired.
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